Dewalt Radial Arm Saw 7770 Manual High School
I am trying out a radial arm saw that a co-worker wants to sell. It is aDeWalt/Black & Decker model 7740/3421(says 'Black and Decker' on the arm and'DeWalt on the blade guard). The saw is at least 15 years old and showsmoderate use and wear (I replaced the motor bearings ($10) because they werenoisy), but it seems to be very solid and accurate.
It comes with a verysturdy open base but no other accessaries.Can anyone give me an estimate on the value of this saw? His preliminaryasking price was $400, but that seemed kind of high for a saw of this age.TIAJim BaumannJim Lokay14.07.97 00:00. I recently bought a Rockwell 10' RAS (built in 1979) in nearly perfectcondition. 2HP, heavy steel open base, 3 good blades with dampener,table in good shape, tools and original manuals. Cuts thru 4x6 timberslike they wern't there. I paid $125 for the setup.
I have generallyseen similar offerings in the $175 neighborhood.The latest Delta version of this saw sells for around $650 new. I thinkI got an exceptional deal on mine but $400 does sound a little high. Onthe other hand, if you were going to buy one anyway and don't have theoption of buying a good unit for under $200 it may beat buying a newone.Hope this is helpful-Jim LokayHouston, TXFT SHOOTER14.07.97 00:00. Jim Baumann wrote: I am trying out a radial arm saw that a co-worker wants to sell. It is a DeWalt/Black & Decker model 7740/3421(says 'Black and Decker' on the arm and 'DeWalt on the blade guard).
The saw is at least 15 years old and shows moderate use and wear (I replaced the motor bearings ($10) because they were noisy), but it seems to be very solid and accurate. It comes with a very sturdy open base but no other accessaries. Can anyone give me an estimate on the value of this saw? His preliminary asking price was $400, but that seemed kind of high for a saw of this age. TIA Jim BaumannI paid $65 of one about 5 years ago. Mine was made in 1972.Michael PeeleKipp Yeakel15.07.97 00:00.
Wrote: I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair asking price?Your price sounds fair enough. Your dilemma may be that there justdoesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.Couldn't you find any reference prices on craigslist? Since you got itfor free, it sounds like you can afford to let it go cheap (which iswhat will probably happen).
Good luck!Bill23.03.14 21:04. Bill wrote: wrote: I just came across a dewalt 7730 in a house I was cleaning out. Was going to put it on Craigslist but had no idea what to ask for it as it is an older model and I know they are expensive new. Do u think $200 is a fair asking price? Your price sounds fair enough.
Your dilemma may be that there just doesn't seem to be as much demand for radial arm saws as in the past.Wikipedia says the arrival of the miter saw is largely responsible. Butstill points out some advantages that a RAS has over a TS.Mike Marlow23.03.14 21:23. On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: dadiOH wrote: Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Dpb wrote: On 3/25/2014 2:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: dadiOH wrote: Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak. Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work. The radial'll handle much heavier/larger work while the SCMS can be left to deal w/ what it's for-detail stuff/precision.So - I'd have to wonder what that means.
My 12' SCMS will handle any widthof wood that I can imagine working with, but maybe you mean something else.Of course - it cannot rip, but that's what my table saw is for. I've an old Rockwell 16' RAS in a long bench and while it can be tuned to be as precise as one wants, my main use for it is roughing out where I really don't care but to the nearest inch or so, usually.Which really confuses me. That does not sound like it is a better tool thana SCMS. The little 10' B&D's are ok but generally just aren't rugged enough for heavy work.Dad had one of them and I had one for a number of years as my first and for quite a while only power tool and I did a lot of work with it but it was always with a fair amount of continual tuning.First off - B&D - not a good standard for conversation. 10' - Inever thought that there would be such a difference between 10' and 12'until I moved to a 12' SCMS.
What a world of difference. As for the tuningrequirement - that's what got me to buy a new SCMS. My 10' Craftsman justcould not be tuned to a reliable level. So - I bought a new one and went to12'. I cannot begin to express how much more reliable and repeatable thissaw is than my Craftsman ever was. It's like going to an entirely differenttool.
Dewalt Radial Arm Saw 7770 Manual High School Denver
The fear of the RAS is grossly over-exaggerated imo.I agree on that point. I just don't see the need for an RAS in this day andage of SCMS.-Mike-woodchucker25.03.14 13:30. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When Imoved in here, I bought a used 10'.
I mounted a dado set in it, andquickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward meb4. But I could have lost fingers when it did. But luckily they were notin the path, but it was totally unexpected. It pushed out harder thanever b4.
I don't consider the sliding miter to be a precision cuttingmachine. I consider it roughing as well.
I do sometimes use it forfinish cuts. But not since I broke mine.
Now i want a new one. Butnot bad enough yet.-JeffMax25.03.14 14:10. On 3/25/2014 1:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: dadiOH wrote: Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak.
Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work.I'm on my third SCMS (Milwaukee 6955-20) and I have yet to own one thatgives me the splinter free cuts that my RAS does.1st one was an 8' Bosch, 2nd another Bosch but 10'.I blamed the blades until I replaced the blade on the 10' with a Forrestblade; much better but still not as good as the RAS (with a Forrest)I only do straight (90°) cross cuts on the RAS and use the Milwaukee formiters.As usual.YMMV.;-)Max25.03.14 14:12. Woodchucker wrote: Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool.
When I moved in here, I bought a used 10'. I mounted a dado set in it, and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me b4. But I could have lost fingers when it did.I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were possible,then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong place to startwith, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that most of thecomplaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposedto inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw forripping.Then.
I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.-Mike-Mike Marlow25.03.14 14:49. Max wrote: On 3/25/2014 1:49 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: dadiOH wrote: Ditto and I wouldn't part with mine either. Sure beats a table saw when you need to whack a foot off a 10' piece 8/4 oak. Yeahbut, I so prefer my SCMS over any radial arm saw for this type of work. I'm on my third SCMS (Milwaukee 6955-20) and I have yet to own one that gives me the splinter free cuts that my RAS does.Holy Cow - this really has to be a blade or a saw thing. I bought a HF 12'SCMS and I have no complaint at all about splinters, etc.
Absolutely smoothcuts, dead on cut. As usual.YMMV.;-)Yup - aint that just the way it seems to go.-Mike-Morgans25.03.14 16:28. 'Mike Marlow' wrote. It seems to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then.
I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibitedactivity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.-Jim in NC-This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.Lew Hodgett25.03.14 16:28.
Woodchucker wrote: Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I moved in here, I bought a used 10'. I mounted a dado set in it, and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me b4. But I could have lost fingers when it did.-'Mike Marlow' wrote: I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong place to start with, and not a fault of the saw.
It seems to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then. I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.-If you ever take a WMT (Wood Mfg Technology) class at CerritosCommunity College, you will find a single 16' RAS that has been aroundfor a few years.The ONLY thing you are allowed to do with it is cross cut roughstock to rough length.Makes a lot of sense to me.BTW, they replaced 8-9 Unisaw, General, PM66 table saws acouple of years ago.LewDoug Winterburn25.03.14 17:13.
On 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote: 'Mike Marlow' wrote. It seems to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then. I do believe the saw has some inherant problems. Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either.I really don't understand this.
I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'mon my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had forabout 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved rippingwith the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust thehold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and mostimportant feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given meany problems.
It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/ora helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about theRAS and especially ripping with a RAS.-'Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and thegospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery'-Winston ChurchillDoug Winterburn25.03.14 17:34. On 05:13 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote: On 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote: 'Mike Marlow' wrote. It seems to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then. I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.
Yep. While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either. I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm on my second one.
The first was the only major power tool I had for about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the RAS and especially ripping with a RAS.That'd be 'hand wringing'Morgans25.03.14 21:05.
'Doug Winterburn' wrote I really don'tunderstand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm on my second one.
The first was the only major power tool I had for about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the RAS and especially ripping with a RAS. That'd be 'hand wringing'All you need is a board with some wild grain, that releases the strain asthe cut is almost complete, and have it spring into the blade and have ittry to pull your hand into the blade.-This email is free from viruses and malware because avast!
Antivirus protection is active.Doug Winterburn25.03.14 21:49. On 3/25/14, 4:45 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: woodchucker wrote: Not to me. I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I moved in here, I bought a used 10'. I mounted a dado set in it, and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me b4.
But I could have lost fingers when it did. I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then. I do believe the saw has some inherant problems.Very true.
I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the time.even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported 'experts.' A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of themost popular tools made and used today.-MIKE-'Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life'-Elvin Jones (1927-2004)-mike@mikedrumsDOT.com-remove 'DOT' ^^^^ to reply-MIKE-26.03.14 08:11.
On 3/25/14, 7:34 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote: On 05:13 PM, Doug Winterburn wrote: On 04:28 PM, Morgans wrote: 'Mike Marlow' wrote. It seems to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then. I do believe the saw has some inherant problems. Yep.
While I was teaching, ripping with the RAS was the one prohibited activity in my shop, and I advised them to never do it at home, either. I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me any problems. It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or a helper with larger panels.
Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the RAS and especially ripping with a RAS. That'd be 'hand wringing'How about the period at the end of your sentence?(This was about as useless and condescending as your post.)woodchucker26.03.14 08:11. On 3/26/2014 11:06 AM, -MIKE- wrote: On 3/25/14, 4:45 PM, Mike Marlow wrote: woodchucker wrote: Not to me.
I used one for years like you it was my only tool. When I moved in here, I bought a used 10'. I mounted a dado set in it, and quickly found out why they are dangerous. Never had it race toward me b4. But I could have lost fingers when it did.
I've heard this before but I never understood it. If that were possible, then it could only be so if your hands were in the wrong place to start with, and not a fault of the saw. It seems to me that most of the complaints about a RAS are reflective of really bad user practice as opposed to inherent problems with the saw - except for turning the saw for ripping.Then. I do believe the saw has some inherant problems. Very true.
I see the same bad technique used with SCMS all the time. even on those TV shows when in the hands of these purported 'experts.' A SCMS has the same obvious inherent problems but they are one of the most popular tools made and used today.Not true. With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting.
It was the dado thatmade me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the sawshowed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me.
The cutdidn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.-Jeff-MIKE-26.03.14 08:12. On 3/25/14, 11:05 PM, Morgans wrote: 'Doug Winterburn' wrote I really don't understand this. I've had a RAS for 43 years, well I'm on my second one. The first was the only major power tool I had for about 25 years. I made plenty of furniture and a lot involved ripping with the RAS. As long as your RAS is properly tuned and you adjust the hold down on the blade guard and the anti-kickback pawls and most important feed against the blade rotation, the RAS has never given me any problems.
It is also wise to have infeed and outfeed support and/or a helper with larger panels. Yet I hear all this hand ringing about the RAS and especially ripping with a RAS. That'd be 'hand wringing' All you need is a board with some wild grain, that releases the strain as the cut is almost complete, and have it spring into the blade and have it try to pull your hand into the blade.Why is your hand in the path of the blade?Same thing could be said of the table saw.-MIKE-26.03.14 08:19. On Wed, 26 Mar 2014 11:11:58 -0400, woodchucker wrote:Not true.
With an SCMS you are pushing the blade against the rotation.When using a radial arm saw, you are climb cutting.Funny I had no problems ripping or cross cutting. It was the dado thatmade me realize the danger. I always had a healthy respect for the RAS,since the blade was fully exposed. And it was the first time the sawshowed me how much power it had when it pushed right out to me. The cutdidn't seem to deep, but it bit and just ran right out.It wasn't bad technique, it was part of the problem with climb cutting.Was the dado sharp? Just wondering if you had figured anything out asto why.Markwoodchucker26.03.14 10:55.
It was brand new at that point.I figured for the width it was too much even though the depth wasshallow, it give it a lot of bite. Not an issue with a table saw.but big issue with a RAS.This was 12-13 years ago, so the result is fresh, but the details lessthan. I had planned on taking multiple cuts to get to depth, but thatdid not happen. I wound up if I remember doing the rest w/o a dado, andjust went full depth and chiseled the waste. But hell if it didn't getsome notice.-JeffMike Marlow26.03.14 10:59.
'-MIKE-' wrote I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way, probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards you and up.I disagree with using a SCMS as a push cut. When you do that, the blade istrying to lift the workpiece off of the bed, and bind it against the fence,and throwing it. It is much easier to control a climb cut, than to riskthrowing a chunk of wood. Really the best cut is made without splinters byclimb cutting the surface, then push cutting the rest of the way through.-Jim in NCMorgans26.03.14 19:46.
On 3/26/2014 10:42 PM, Morgans wrote: '-MIKE-' wrote I should've been more clear. I see people using SCMS with a pulling cut, just like a RAS. In that case, they are acting in the same way, probably making the SCMS even more dangerous since it can climb towards you and up. I disagree with using a SCMS as a push cut. When you do that, the blade is trying to lift the workpiece off of the bed, and bind it against the fence, and throwing it. It is much easier to control a climb cut, than to risk throwing a chunk of wood.
Really the best cut is made without splinters by climb cutting the surface, then push cutting the rest of the way through.You can disagree all you want, but that's how it's designed, and that'show it should be used.Climb cutting is always risky. Routers, tablesaws, radial arm saw.Now how do you figure that you risk throwing the wood as it bindsagainst the fence???? If you have too much hook, it will lift the wood.if you are not against the fence it will throw the wood.if you put the wood against the fence and clamp it down, you will have agood safe cut. Even with a blade that has too much hook.You don't have to clamp it, you can have the clamp prevent lifting byjust hovering above the wood.Regardless, the saw is designed to be used w/o a climb cut.-JeffMax27.03.14 18:02. On Tue, 25 Mar 2014 17:49:07 -0400, Mike Marlow wrote: Holy Cow - this really has to be a blade or a saw thing. I bought a HF 12' SCMS and I have no complaint at all about splinters, etc. Absolutely smooth cuts, dead on cut.I also.
I did buy a 100 tooth blade and install a zero-clearance insertand fence. I get furniture quality cuts that look like they were planed.May not be the best SCMS in the world, but one heck of a deal for themoney.-Where have all the flowers gone? Pete Seeger 1919-2014John Doe06.07.14 16:22. 'I bought a HF.' Morgans wrote: 'Mike Marlow' wrote Stalker. Mike, my sincere hope is that the last post is your last response to Hoe Doe. I have seen groups destroyed because members in good standing of a group gave one troll the attention they desired.
Shun this fool, ignore him, and everyone else do the same. He will soon tire and go to another group with weaker minds and weaker self disciplined members.Taken. Sometimes we know better, yet do things anyway.-Mike-Larry Blanchard07.07.14 09:57. Been woodworking for over 50 years and used RAS's for all of that time. The first 40 years commercially, and the most recent 10 years as a hobbyist.
Still have yet to have anything dangerous happen.All though the years, I've heard wooder's warn of the dangers of RAS's. Most of them never used one, many used them a handful of times and almost all were never properly trained in the correct and safe use of one.It is the reasons above that lead to so many uninformed opinions and heresay about one of the most versatile and valuable wood shop tools in American history.When speaking valuable, the first brand that comes to mind are the better models of the DeWalt. However, there are other brands and models that can perform well if properly tuned and cared for, and operated by a trained technician who is not well known to be an idiot.markm.@gmail.com04.01.16 09:20.
On Saturday, July 12, 1997 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, Jim Baumann wrote: I am trying out a radial arm saw that a co-worker wants to sell. It is a DeWalt/Black & Decker model 7740/3421(says 'Black and Decker' on the arm and 'DeWalt on the blade guard). The saw is at least 15 years old and shows moderate use and wear (I replaced the motor bearings ($10) because they were noisy), but it seems to be very solid and accurate. It comes with a very sturdy open base but no other accessaries.
Can anyone give me an estimate on the value of this saw? His preliminary asking price was $400, but that seemed kind of high for a saw of this age. TIA Jim BaumannI just bought a 740 in great shape for $75Electric Comet04.01.16 09:24.
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